A first visit we’ll never forget!
There’s nothing better than an impromptu trip, without a specific destination or too much preparation. That’s exactly what we did when we took the road to the North, not to St-Sau or Tremblant, but to the REAL North. We headed for the Eeyou Istchee region of Baie-James! A spontaneous road trip that took us through magnificent landscapes and wonderful encounters.
An impromptu departure, but a memorable journey
Initially, we were thinking of going to Florida to meet up with friends, but between the lack of a reservation and the idea of changing winter tires, we quickly lost interest. So we decided to leave without thinking too much and take the road north, without a precise plan. Empty antifreeze, plenty of water, a few provisions, dog food and off we go!
First stop: Lac-à-la-Tortue and Saint-Félicien
The first stop was at my granddaughter’s place, Lac-à-la-Tortue, and then we headed back to Saint-Félicien via La Tuque. The road is super quiet and beautiful. At night, we slept in a Harvest Host, more like a garage yard, but a quiet and safe place. First problem: despite good insulation and ROLEF curtains, the pipe at the tank outlet froze, preventing the pump from working. Fortunately, a small 250 W electric heater solved the problem. The next morning, however, we had only 30% of the battery left…
Chibougamau: Encounter with the wilderness
Once in Chibougamau, we went to stock up on groceries, as we had no idea what we’d find further north. A small local discovery: a beer from Microbrasserie Maître Renard, a real favorite!
We then spent the night near a municipal beach, with a beautiful view of a ski-doo trail. A stop at Home Hardware yielded a heating wire, which would solve our pump problem for the rest of the trip. Keeping an eye on the temperature sensors, we saw that everything was working fine. The wire, with its on/off cycle, consumes between 20 and 80W, which is quite reasonable. The sensor displayed 5-7°C. Keeping the Espar D2 at 20°C and using the heating wire, we woke up in the morning with 75% capacity left on our VOLTHIUM 400Ah.
Unforeseen: Between ptarmigan and hunting moments
From Chibougamau onwards, things start to get interesting. We take the famous Route du Nord, or RDN for short. Here, you really start to get away from it all! No more calcium on the roads, not a grain of sand, just white as far as the eye can see. And then we come across our first ptarmigan. Wow, they’re beautiful! There can be 10, 20, 30 or even 50 of them in the middle of the road, playing at who’ll be the last to take off when a car arrives.
Even with the best studded tires, a 9,000-lb van can’t brake on a patch of ice! I put on the 4 blinkers, reverse and find this beautiful bird dead, but intact. A Ptarmigan, which means “rabbit’s foot” because of its big hairy legs.
A pickup truck drives by, stops, and I show him the little feathered angel. He says, “Hello! You’ve hit that pretty beast. Now what do you do with it?” I reply, a little confused: “Well… I don’t know…” And then he smiles at me and says: “You hide it in your panel” with a big smile, OK thanks for the advice!
PS: Don’t worry, at the suggestion of a hunting friend, I had my small game license and the “twelve” to grandpa, before I left. Just in case…
So that was the first one to end up in the bag attached to the spare wheel. Not just for looks, after all!
Nemaska: An unforgettable encounter with the Cree community
After a 4-5 hour drive, we arrived in Nemaska, on the shores of Champion Lake, in a Cree community. A real favorite! Far from the prejudices we might have about native villages, Nemaska was impeccable, well-maintained, and the people were super-friendly. One of the locals came to talk to us with pride about his village, and gave us advice on where to sleep. We stopped for gas at $1.85/L, not bad at all.
We tasted our Ptarmigan. The meat was really surprising, very red, tender and tasty, with no taste of liver that I don’t usually like in game. I’d say a bit like beef filet mignon? It gives you a good idea of why hunting is so important here, and with the price and variety of food at the grocery store, it also motivates you to hunt, fish and gather…
Exploring the North: The Route du Nord and the Billy Diamond Route
After Nemaska, we had the option of continuing on the Route du Nord (RDN), joining the Billy Diamond road, or as our guide at the gas station suggested: heading north on Eastmain 1. Another magnificent road. Along the way, we passed mining projects, HQ structures, the Brave Peace Reservoir and, of course, ptarmigan colonies. The conditions were sometimes difficult, but the scenery was well worth the effort. The taiga welcomed us with its grandiose, Zen-like, poetic and soothing scenery.
After driving over an impressive dike, we take the Muskeg road back to the Baie-James highway.
The final stage: Eastmain and Baie-James
To the right, Radisson and the Trans-Taiga, to the left, the South… We turn left, promising ourselves to return, better prepared and longer, probably in autumn, after the black fly rush.
Winter is magnificent, but exploring in a van becomes a real challenge. Only the main roads are cleared of snow, making access to rest areas, side roads and parking lots impossible. This means one long day at a time, in sometimes trying conditions.
The nearest stop: Eastmain, on the edge of Baie-James, still over 100 km from Billy Diamond. The closer we get, the stronger the wind blows and visibility becomes precarious. We finally arrive in port at dusk, with the same routine: refuel, scout for the night and go to bed early. We can’t see much because of the blizzard, but we’re less than 100 m from the intersection of the Eastmain River and Baie-James. The 50-60 km/h gusts shake the van, and you feel like you’re on a boat in a storm!
The next day, we head back south, passing through Matagami, Lebel-sur-Quévillon, Senneterre, Mont-Laurier… before returning home.
Tips for travelers
If you’re planning a trip to the North, here are a few tips:
- Prepare well: Winter conditions can be harsh. Make sure you have a reliable vehicle, good winter tires and enough provisions.
- Be flexible: Roads are not always cleared of snow, and there are few services in remote areas. Be prepared for long days on the road and sometimes difficult conditions.
- Respect nature and communities: These regions are wild and beautiful. Take the time to stop, talk to the locals and discover what makes these places so unique.
Conclusion: A call to adventure
It took 7 days for 2,500 km. The maximum distance between 2 gas stations was about 400 km. This trip to Baie-James was a real immersion in the Far North. An authentic, wild and totally exotic road trip. If you’re looking for an adventure off the beaten track, this is the place for you! Eeyou Istchee Baie-James is the place where you really feel far from it all. Every kilometer you travel is a new adventure. This trip, though unexpected, will remain etched in our memories. So, if you want to experience an authentic adventure, with incredible landscapes and memorable encounters, the Far North is waiting for you!